Category Archives: Trail Log

LeConte24 Part 3: Inside my head…

Boulevard Trail

Miles:   8.8       Elevation:   3724 ↑       Grade: 8%          

Hiking Time: 3:15       Pace:  2.8 mph       Avg. Temp.:   60

Map Miles Completed:   8.8       Total Map Miles:  36.5       Total Miles Hiked:   36.5

Newfound Gap at the beginning of the end

Newfound Gap at the beginning of the end

9:00 is a better start time than midnight.  man i’m freezing.  it’s not that cold but i’m shivering.  pull out the fleece.  it’ll come off in 15 minutes but right now, i’m freezing.  let’s get this picture over with and get moving.  watch that guy in the broken down pickup truck.  looks a little suspicious.  oh, good, he’s leaving.  so glad that truck cranked.

“Brian, you ready to go?  I’d need to hit the head right quick.”

“Yep. I’m ready to warm up so let’s move.”

it’s amazing but I don’t feel that bad after hiking almost 30 miles.  advil helped a lot.  i should have eaten more dinner.  it’s all good cause i have plenty of trail food.

Shawn: “Make sure to thank Tina for me.  She really helped us out by shuttling us up here.”

Brian: “You bet.  I think we made the right decision on the routing.  It took a total of 30 minutes to transport, eat and load up for the next segment.  Last time it took 1:45 to go around to Greenbriar.”

“We’re going to break 5:30 am all to pieces.  Heck, we’re going to break 4:00.  Do you think we can hit 3:30?  That would take 3 hours off our time.”

“I feel pretty good right now.  I think it’s a good chance we can. look, there’s the AT blaze.”

“It’ll take you all the way to Maine…”

“wow, pretty quick time to the Boulevard Trail.  that was a fast 3 miles.  crazy that the Jump Off is not on the official map.  even more crazy that trails like the horse trail around Smokemont are. a mile of mud and horse poop.  it’s just as well, there wouldn’t be much to see tonight.”

“We’re going down now.  A lot!  I’ve already climbed this elevation! I don;t want to do it again.  Do you know how much we descend?”

“I think it’s about 1,000 overall.  We head down until about 6 miles in.  Then we have to climb back up to the ridge.”

gotta be really careful.  legs are tired.  every time i stumble, i head for the edge of the trail.  Trees and rocks.  my head.  broken ankle.  can’t see much.  nice and cool though.  the night is clear.  thought there’d  be more stars than this.

“There’s a sign.”

I think it’s for Myrtle Point.  Yep that’s it…”

High Point is just ahead.  I wonder if I can get a picture of it…”

there’s the shelter, those guys we met at the Alum Cave trail said they were staying there.  It’s midnight.  we should wake them up and ask how far it is to Rainbow Falls. we should probably be quiet…

Rock Pile at High Point at midnight

Rock Pile at High Point at midnight

Trillium Gap/Brushy Mtn. Trail

Miles:   9.1       Elevation:   4,564↓       Grade: 9.5%          

Hiking Time: 3:50       Pace:  2.4 mph       Avg. Temp.:   60

Map Miles Completed:   5.4       Total Map Miles:  41.9       Total Miles Hiked:   45.6

9.61 miles.  i wish we could have figured out how to skip the Trillium Gap trail and just do the Brushy Mtn. trail. we’ve already done it anyway.  i don’t know why we’re counting Brushy Mtn. anyway.  technically, it doesn’t go all the way to the top.

“Hey Brian, did Dave Worth hike all 6 trails?”

“Yep.”

dang it!  i guess we gotta do it.  it’s not like we can hitch around it now at 1:00 in the morning.  9.78 miles.  man, we’re going slow.  i’m not sure having this GPS watch is such a great thing.  i keep looking down and we’ve only covered a tenth of a mile.  maybe it’s better not to know.  that way you’re surprised when you’re done.  we finished Alum Cave sooner than i thought.  9.81 miles.  that’s the fourth time the “low battery” warning came up.  i don’t remember the rocks being so big the last time.  how can they make the llamas walk on this stuff?  9.83 miles.  CRAP! we’re going slow.  my legs hurt. my butt hurts.  EVERYTHING hurts.  these big step things they put in the trail don’t help a bit.  9.98 miles.  GREAT!

“10 miles in Brian.  We’ve descended about 1,200 feet”

Low battery again.  

“Hey Brian, my watch isn’t going to last much longer”

“Mine’s dead too.  Hopefully it saved the data.  Be a shame to lose the whole day.”

great!  spend $300 on a fancy watch that can tell you how many steps you take and it can’t last a whole day.  

Brushy Mtn. Trail Junction

Brushy Mtn. Trail Junction

FINALLY!  Brushy Mt. trail.  i love seeing those signs. 4.5 miles to Porters Creek.  i can make this. i hope we’re done with the rocks.  Brushy Mtn. trail is one of those old logging road beds right?  i don’t remember. 

Brian: “We did the right thing hiking the spur trail to the summit this afternoon.  I’m so glad we don’t have to do it in the dark.

Me: “It, would have been pointless.  We wouldn’t see much except the city lights would be cool”

the rocks are still here and now there’s overgrowth. at least there hasn’t been any blow downs to climb over. WAIT! don’t say that, we still have 4 miles to go.  don’t kill the mojo!  i thought the cicada’s or whatever these things are would be gone by now.  i guess it’s better than dead quiet.  i thought we would hear an owl or something.  at least there’s no motorcycles in the distance.  no bears today.  wonder what happens if we hear that loud huffing sound. 12.6 miles.

“Hey Brian, 4 miles to go and we’ve descended about 2,200 feet.”

“It’s 4 miles to Porter’s Creek.  We still have the gravel road.  It’s another mile.”

“Are you sure??!!!

“I’m sure”

CRAPPPPP!!!! now i’m playing mind games on myself.  5 miles to go and it hurts every step.

“Brian, how are you feeling?”

“OK”

he’s lying.  my whole body hurts.  we’re both slowing down.  i felt so good at Newfound Gap, even going uphill.  should have eaten something but my stomach hurts.  drink some water.  10.13 miles. “low battery” AGAIN!  i gotta sit down a second.  i’ll let Brian hike on ahead and i’ll catch up.  i could fall asleep right now.  just a little nap.  it wouldn’t hurt our time that much.  WHAT AM I SAYING???!!!!  get up slacker.  OOOOOO my legs hurt.  great, Brian waited on me.  

“Hey Brian.  I’m dead!

“You mean you or your watch?”

“Both”

now what am i going to do?  i can’t tell our progress.  that’s it.  it’s way better to know and keep looking.  now all i can do is suffer.  got nothing left to talk about.  can’t see anything.  those cricket things won’t shut up!  my headlamp is a lot brighter than Brian’s.  i should lead for a while but i need him to pace me now.  i could count steps.  no, that’s just stupid.  i could pull out my phone and check the time but then i’d have to hold it.  i could ask Brian to check the time, he’s got that belt pocket.  nah, just grind it out.  working through the pain sounded honorable at high school football practice but it just sounds stupid now.  at least the trail’s finally smoothed out.  it’s really flat here. we gotta be close to the road. there’s a switchback.  switchbacks are good.  change of direction. something’s different.

Brian: “It’s the gravel road”

Me:  “Finally. Do you think we can pick up the pace?

Brian: “I don’t have much left.”

Me: “Me either.  We’re almost there.”

i REALLY hope we were supposed to turn left.  Brian seems sure.  i should ask.  no i trust him.  i REALLY hope he’s right. maybe he’s almost delirious like me.  are you crazy if you know you’re going crazy?  wait, that’s a catch 22.  i can’t be crazy because i’m thinking about being crazy. i wonder where the other end of this goes.  what would we do if we turned the wrong way?  nah, Brian knows.  i should ask. no i trust him.  I REALLY hope he’s right.  we’re moving faster.  that’s good.  chocolate milk is waiting in the truck.  cold chocolate milk.  i REALLY love chocolate milk.

“There’s some sort of light ahead!  Was there a street light at the trail head?”

“Don’t think so.”

LeConte24 - 2015: THE END!

LeConte24 – 2015: THE END!

“Wait, it’s the reflectors on the gate.  WE”RE DONE!!!”

“4:05 am.  We cut an hour and a half off our planned time, which was two hours off our first time.  19 1/2 hours.  Plus we added the Brushy Mtn. summit. WE DID IT!!!!”

LeConte24 Part 2: Bull Head to Alum Cave

Bull Head Trail to Alum Cave Trail

Miles:   6.8       Elevation Gain:   3687↑       Grade:  12%          

Hiking Time: 2:47       Pace:  2.4 mph       Avg. Temp.:   80 – 64

Map Miles Completed:   6.8       Total Map Miles:   22.2       Total Miles Hiked:   22.2

Brian at the Bull Head Trailhead

Brian at the Bull Head Trailhead

At this point “Bull Head” is aptly named.  By now we have had a few interactions with other hikers, exchanging the typical pleasantries like:

“How far is the falls?”

“Oh, ’bout a mile, mile and a half.”  (Everyone knows this is the standard answer , even if it’s really 900 yards)

“Where ya’ll from?”

“Knoxville and Sevierville.”

“Ya’ll stayin’ up on LeConte tonight?”

Now the answer to that question get’s tricky.  We could say “no” and move on.  But if we say “sort of”, then we have to explain that we will, in fact, be spending the night somewhere up on the mountain, but we won’t be sleeping.  Choosing which answer depends on several factors.  First, are we due for a break?  If so then we go with “sort of.”  If the inquisitor is wearing street shoes, we quickly reply with “no” and tell them the trailhead is about a mile, mile and a half.  On the other hand, if their pack looks cool and they’re not wearing bear spray on their hip belt, we usually engage.

Reactions are always mixed.  Some think we’re crazy while others are duly impressed. Once the conversation starts, we know we are headed for the question.  “To see if we can do it,” is the answer Brian and I have agreed on.  Now back to the aptly named Bull Head Trail.  I imagine most folks walk away with some analogous notion of the two of us being bullheaded.

Early Signs of Fall on Bull Head

Early Signs of Fall on Bull Head

The Smokies benefit from having four distinct seasons and each is beautiful.  Winter brings the wonderland of snow and frozen waterfalls.  Spring and early summer bring laurel, rhododendron and the incredible wild dogwoods.  Summer is green and lush, and the Fall….  we are on the verge of a wildfire of color and some of the trees have gotten an early start.  Bright crimson red and against a backdrop of lush green, all under a deep blue sky.  Only one Artist is capable of this quality of painting.

Bull Head is a steady climb and not very rugged compared to Trillium Gap.  Much of it was in the afternoon sun.  About 2 miles in, a trio of college guys passed us and seemed excited to tell us about the bees up ahead.  They gave us a pretty clear description of the trail with a stump on the left and the trail turning into direct sunlight.  We asked them about how far ahead it was and they said, “about a mile, mile and a half.” (Who did they think we were, street shoe people?)  Turns out they were right.  For some reason, Brian insisted that I take the lead on this section.  It was only fair because four years ago, on this very same trail, our quartet ran into a yellow jacket nest in a water bar log.  Everyone got stung but me.  We turned on a bend and saw trail that matched the description.  We walked carefully looking for tiny flying beasts.  It’s amazing how many flying insects you see when you’re looking for bees…  We made it past the stump and I thought we were clear and then BANG!  A yellow jacket hit me about six inches above my left heel.  Could have been worse i guess.  Brian, my buddy… my hiking comrade, my brother in arms simply said, “Well, now we’re even.”  (How did he know???!!!!!!)

From this point on, we were obligated to tell anyone we met about the hazard.  It became a bit.  We would say hello and Brian would look at me and say:

“Should we tell them about the bees?”

“Nah, they’ll find ’em”

Of course we would pass on the description and wish them well.

The sun was headed down by the time we got to the Alum Cave Trail junction.  We stopped for water and a few granola bars.  We left the trail head with 80 degree temperature but it was 64 by the time we got to the top of the ridge.

Halfway Point!


Alum Cave Trail

Miles:   5.5       Elevation:   2419 ↓       Grade: 9%          

Hiking Time: 1:56       Pace:  2.8 mph       Avg. Temp.:   66

Map Miles Completed:   5.5       Total Map Miles:  27.7       Total Miles Hiked:   27.7

Shawn making sure of the right path on Alum Cave

Shawn making sure of the right path on Alum Cave

The first LeConte24 hike ended up descending on the Alum Cave trail.  We caught a beautiful sunset and this segment would prove no different.  Having already hiked to the summit on the Rainbow Falls Trail,  we opted to take a quick right on Alum Cave.  This year, the great folks in the Park Service and the Smoky Mountain Hiking Club are renovating the Alum Cave Trail to improve erosion control, shore up some of the rockslide areas and generally beef up the trail to handle all the traffic.  This construction necessitates its closing on Monday through Thursday through November 2015.  Fortunately for us, it was Saturday, at least for a few more hours.  The main thing was the fact that darkness would catch us before we reached the trailhead but we were prepared with headlamps.  A lot of hiking equipment has gotten cheaper over the years but not so with headlamps.  My brand-new Black Diamond has a 200 lumen bright beam, a wide angle flood light and if you hold the button down just right, the red lights will turn on.  All for a cool $50 bucks.

One of the cliff-side sections of Alum Cave

One of the cliff-side sections of Alum Cave

The improvements on Alum Cave became apparent as we got down the trail a bit.  Sections were wider and there are a number of step constructions that smoothened out some of the more treacherous parts.  There are still those sections on the edge of cliff one should take care to cross, especially in the fading sunlight.  Fortunately, the trail was dry and safe.

The sun was really fading fast and yielded some incredible views while we were still on the upper section.  We wanted to stop and contemplate the moment but the clock was ticking on so we snapped a few pictures and kept moving.

Alum Cave is popular for several reasons.  It is the shortest route to the top of Mt. LeConte and the parking area is large and easily accessible.  While steep, it is not as rugged as some of the other routes.  It has some unique features like the cliffs, Arch Rock and the famous bluffs.  After the renovations are complete it will be one of the best hiking trails in the park.

Sunset on Alum Cave Trail

Sunset on Alum Cave Trail

IMG_1429

Alum Cave Bluff at dusk

Shawn approaching Arch Rock carefully in the dark

Shawn approaching Arch Rock carefully in the dark

LeConte24 Part 1: And So It Began…

Rainbow Falls to Mt. LeConte

Miles:   6.7       Elevation:   3601↑       Grade:  10%       Avg. Temp.:   64

Map Miles Completed:   6.7       Total Map Miles:   6.7       Total Miles Hiked:   6.7

It was a dark and stormy night…  No it wasn’t.  It was a clear, cool, beautiful morning.  The kind that suggests what the 6th day of creation must have been like.  Except for the cars in the parking lot…

Brian and Shawn at the Rainbow Falls Trailhead

Brian and Shawn at the Rainbow Falls Trailhead

LeConte24 – 2015 got underway about 8:30 am on Saturday, September 19.  According to my hiking buddy and good friend Brian Thomas, it was this same weekend 4 years ago when we did this the first time.  We decided to hike all 6 trails on Mt. Leconte on a whim after we heard about Dave Worth’s record break
ing hike a few weeks earlier.  We had no expectations of breaking records; only completing the hike in 24 hours.  It became the impetus for completing my first 900 miler.

A complete account of it, plus Brian’s excellent post of this hike can be found on our blog: www.leconte24.com.  The goal this time was to cut a couple hours off our time of 22 hours.  Brian redesigned our route to minimize shuttles between trailheads and optimize elevation gain in our favor.

The new route: Up Rainbow Falls, down Trillium Gap; up Bull Head, down Alum Cave; shuttle to Newfound Gap; up Boulevard, down Trillium Gap/Brushy Mtn.

IMG_1348This time, rather than starting at midnight, we chose to begin in the morning after a good night’s sleep.  We dropped my vehicle off in Greenbriar where we planned to end the hike around 5:30 the next morning.

The hike to Rainbow Falls was pleasant.  We targeted a 2.5 mph pace but actually had a hard time keeping it under 3.  The time was spent catching up on our lives and greeting other hikers we passed.  Rainbow Falls flowed barely more than a trickle here in mid-September.  We stopped for a quick pic and moved on. We got to the top in about 2:44, 2.45 miles per hour which was right on target.  Time for some food and water then on to Trillium Gap.


Mt. LeConte to Trillium Gap

Miles:   9.6       Elevation:   3654↓       Grade:  8%       Avg. Temp.:   64

Map Miles Completed:   8.5       Total Map Miles:   15.2       Total Miles Hiked:   15.6

IMG_1390Finding the Trillium Gap trail at the top of LeConte can be a challenge because it’s kind of hidden in tall plant growth off to the side of the cabins.  Brian went right to it though and we were off.  Trillium Gap is pretty rocky most of the way.  It’s also the route the llamas take when they resupply the lodge.  The Park Service installed several step sections to control erosion but they are not a smoother alternative to trail.  This will become challenging later in the hike but with fresh legs, we descended steadily to the junction with Brushy Mtn.  Here we had a decision to make.

The last time we did this, we passed on the spur trail to the summit of Brushy Mtn.  It was not on the agenda for hiking the trails up LeConte.  However, it IS on the official park map so that means a 900 miler has to hike it.  This decision caused me to have to do an 18 mile hike later in order to complete the 0.4 mile section to the summit of Brushy Mtn.  Although it was an additional 0.8 miles, Brian was gracious to head off on the spur trail with me.

View from the Summit of Brushy Mtn.

View from the Summit of Brushy Mtn.

The effort was rewarded with some of the most incredible views we would have that day.  Brushy Mtn. is a bald, although the prodigious plant growth is worthy of the mountain’s name.  The only other time I was in this place, it was socked in and there were no views whatsoever.  The trail just ends at the top, kind of like a cul-de-sac.  We were up and down within 20 minutes and ready to continue down Trillium Gap.

A crowd of civilians enjoying Grotto Falls

A crowd of civilians enjoying Grotto Falls

Grotto Falls was a popular spot with dozens of people playing in the water and taking pictures.  A line formed on the trail at the edge of the waterfall as people wanted their picture taken behind it.  It’s good to see kids hiking and enjoying the park.  Nervous parents try to make sure the children don’t slip on the rocks.

Eventually we got to the parking area and the trail turned to follow the road back to the Rainbow Falls trailhead.  We debated whether or not this section of trail was official Trillium Gap Trail or just a connector.  My mind went back to thinking about how we could have bypassed it but that was wishful thinking.  At the trail head, the official milage included that section.  Oh, well.  At least the effort wasn’t lost.  The  8.9 mile descent took 3:15 including the spur trail to Brushy Mtn. at an average of 2.7 mph.  Right on schedule!  Time for lunch!