Back in the cloud… and on the trail…

… not that I have not been slowly adding to my second 900 miler map, but blogging had to make  way for research and dissertations and other life pursuits.  Now I have a few hundred miles to catch up on but I also have a new adventure in the works.

Permit to enter the Inyo National Forest south of Yosemite

I guess the adventure officially started with obtaining my permit to hike the John Muir Trail.  The adventure is a reward of sorts to myself on the completion of my Ed.D. this coming May.  Pursuing a terminal degree in your fifth decade is probably an odd thing to do, but it fits with other paths I have set out on in my life.  At the time, it made sense to cut a pathway to my last career leading into my retirement years. This in itself was a change for me because I have always had my finger in the wind and shifted direction when new opportunities revealed themselves.  But this was different.  I figured I could find a teaching job at a nice small college in the mountains somewhere and spend my off-days hiking.   I was offered some sage advice that obtaining a terminal degree might provide added credibility and qualification to such a pursuit so I found a way to ‘ejecate’ myself while maintaining my current lifestyle. So over the last 4 years, I have been writing papers, researching topics, and generally dipping my toes into the pool of the academic life.  Little did I know, my academic life would find me early than I had planned and I now have a great gig teaching entrepreneurship at the University of Tennessee in Knoxville, a medium sized city near the mountains where I can hike on my off-days. I must say, the pool of academic life feels just fine!

Becoming a “doctor” of anything is not a trivial pursuit.  It is, in part, a matter of survival in that research and academia has it’s own flow, its own culture and its own processes, into which one must acclimate.  The experience is intentionally rigorous as it should be and by the third year, you are over half way but still far from the finish.  But the underlying blessing is that you can begin to see  the finish line from where you are and it slowly gets bigger as it materializes from the desert mirage that has loomed before you for so long.  Then, just as momentum is gaining, you hit the last obstacle; a big pool of quicksand called the Dissertation.  It is the epitome of your introduction into the academic life and just like boot camp, it is academia’s way of making sure you are cut out for this life and it throws everything at you; literature reviews, comments from your committee, endless revisions, making changes for the sake of making changes.  But the biggest challenge no one prepares you for is the one that tests your perseverance to its very limits.  That is figuring out how to generate a Table of Contents in MS WORD.  I really wish I had those 6 hours of my life back.

Long into this experience, you provide yourself with motivation and encouragement by thinking of what life will be like on the other side.  If you notice, there is a quote at the headline of this blog by one of the founding fathers of the wilderness experience for its own sake.  This quote has been a guiding star for me ever since my awareness turned to it.  It is only fitting to celebrate the culmination of this life milestone by walking the path honoring the one who showed me how to walk in the Garden itself.

So now, my 2nd 900 Miler Map has an added purpose; to prepare me for the 217.9 miles of the John Muir Trail.  I’ll be sharing the planning of this adventure as it comes along.

“Between every two pines is a pathway to a new world” – John Muir

Strider Out!

 

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The 900 Miler Data Book is in the works!

This is my 2nd 900 miler and this blog was created to document the experience and to share hiking philosophy.  The site continues to evolve and has become many things as I experiment with different ways to capture this odyssey.  One of these is an online guidebook.  Another is a thorough review and index of the campsites.

AT Trail Data BookToday, I am introducing another branch of this project which is the 900 Miler Data Book.  The idea came from the Appalachian Trail Data Book, which is updated and published every year by the Appalachian Trail Conservancy.  When I was a through hiker, I carried three pieces of navigation information; the section map, the Philosophers Guide to Hiking the Appalachian Trail, and the Data Book.  The Data Book is a summary of each section of trail, along with major landmarks and milestones in a small, pocket-sized book.  On long trail sections, it was indispensable because it was often the only way to gauge progress  based on mileage.

As I was “mid-map” on the last 900 Miler, I found myself wishing I had a better idea of what lied along each trail.  Just how many creek crossing are on Eagle Creek?  Where am I likely to get my feet wet?  What is the elevation gain (loss) in either direction?  What interesting landmarks should I be on the lookout for?  Where does that side trail go?

“Hiking Trails of the Smokies” (The Brown Book) is a great guidebook, but it is heavy and the narrative style is not very concise for this purpose.  The National Geographic Map is also a handy resource that I carry at all times but it lacks the details I am looking for.  Ken Wise’s book, “Hiking Trails of the Great Smoky Mountains” is excellent, especially since I can get it electronically and download it on my smart phone.  Ken has done a great job combining a trail summary with a detailed narrative of each trail.  Again, I am looking for an abbreviated trail summary.

Low Gap II Data BookSo on this 900 Miler, I have endeavored to create a Data Book in the style of the AT Trail Data Book.  You have seen a section of the specific trail included on my more recent accounts.  Having completed nearly 60 trails so far, I decided to create a PDF of my spreadsheet and make it available.  I’ll add the details of each trail as I hike them.  By the end, I hope to be able to publish the result in a small pocket-sized version.

Here is the link to the PDF:   900 Miler Data Book Rev.1

Check it out and let me know what you think.

HikerHead 2  Strider out….

Campsite #35 – Gilliland Fork

IMG_2780Campsite #35 – Gilliland Fork

Lower Mount Cammerer Trail – 3.3 miles from the Trailhead at Cosby Campground and , 4.1 miles from the trailhead on the Appalachian Trail.  Elevation 2,680

Capacity: 12

Rating: 5

Water: Gilliland Creek

Gilliland Fork Campsite is a bit unusual in that it is arranged in several sections labeled A, B, C, D and E.  The first 3 sites are near the creek.  A & B have nice grassy spots that appear to drain well for tents.  Site C is a little more impacted for some reason and may not drain as well.  Sites D & E are about 100 yd’s further up the trail.  They are much more secluded although level ground may be a challenge.  It seems that often among the flattest best places for a tent is directly under the bear cables and such is the case here.  But for hammocks, the upper sites offer much more privacy.


IMG_2779Rating Summary:

  • Well Drained Sites
  • Low Impact
  • Good Water
  • Bear Cables
  • Leave No Trace Layout

 

 

 

HikerHead 2  Shalom…

Lower Mount Cammerer Trail

Date: May 6, 2016

Miles: 7.4 miles       Elevation Gain: 394 ft.         Elev./Mi: 53        Grade: 1%

Difficulty: Class 1    Hiking Time: 2:10      Pace: 3.4 mph       Avg. Temp.: 59

Lower Mount Cammerer Trail Lower Mount Cammerer Trail Elevation

Lower Mount Cammerer Trail, along with Low Gap Trail II, connects the Appalachian Trail to Cosby Campground and the two trails make up part of a very popular loop hike that includes the fire tower atop Mount Cammerrer.  The trail is fairly rich in features that includes Campsite #35, Sutton Ridge Overlook and a number of stream crossings.  The main trailhead is at Cosby Campground at an intersection with Low Gap Traill II near campsite B93.  Although the guidebooks portray the trail from this starting point, this hike was completed starting from the Appalachian Trail.

Lower Mount Cammmerer Trail leaves the AT at 3,566 feet and begins a fairly level stretch over a mile and a half.  The path meanders in and out of ridges and ravines, often accompanied by stream crossings.  The first mile crosses streams four times.  At 1.5 miles, there is a side trail to a very small cemetery where the markers are mostly tiny rock slabs, only one of which bears any wording of its inhabitant; a two year old child who died in 1912.  Not far past this landmark,

Cascade at Riding Fork

Cascade at Riding Fork

the trail starts its steady decent for the next four miles.  The trail is well graded single track through mixed hardwoods and the stream crossings continue.  At 3.1 miles, the trail crosses Rowdy Creek, requiring a fording of the creek.  The feet get wet again at 3.8 miles crossing Robinson Creek.  Gilliland Fork Campsite #35 appears at 4.1 miles.  The site consists of a number of satellite sites near the creek at 4.2 miles.  The tents sites are more level near the creek crossing.  At 5.3 miles the trail enters a pine forest.  At 5.5 miles, there is another stream crossing that can be negotiated by hopping the rocks, followed by a small but pretty cascade and stream crossing Riding Fork at 5.8 miles.

 

View from Sutton Overlook

View from Sutton Overlook

The side trail to Sutton Overlook arrives at 6.0 miles.  This trail is only 200 yards or so but it is fairly steep.  The effort is worth it as the path ends on a ridge point with outstanding views to the north and west, including Maddron Bald.  There is a footlog across Toms Creek at 6.4 miles and a wet crossing through one of its branches at 6.5 miles.  At 6.7 miles, the trail becomes a gravel road at a turnaround and continues a gentle descent to the trailhead.  Low Gap Trail intersects at 7.3 miles and there is a footlog over Cosby Creek just beyond.  AT IMG_27887.4 miles, the trailhead at Cosby Campground appears, ending an enjoyable hike on a well graded pathway.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Data Book:

Lower Mount Cammerer Data Book

HikerHead 2  Shalom…

 

Mount Cammerer Trail

Date:    May 6, 2016

Miles:  0.6 miles           Elevation Gain:  118 ft.    Elev./Mi:  196         Grade:     4%          

Difficulty:  Class 1      Hiking Time: 0:14       Pace:  2.5  mph       Avg. Temp.:   46

Mount Cammerer Trail Mount Cammerer Elevation

Mount Cammerer Trail is the access trail to Mt. Cammerer Tower from the Appalachian Trail.  The mountain, trail and the tower are named for Arno Cammerer who was the director of the National Park Service at the time the Smokies were designated as a national park.  There are no camping facilities or water along this trail and while camping in the tower occurs, the Park Service discourages it by patrolling the area frequently

The trail is generally accompanied by laurel and rhododendron and reaches a point where it becomes brushy like an overgrown bald.  The views are spectacular, especially when viewed from atop many of the rock outcroppings along the way.

The trail terminates at the tower which was constructed of stone and local timber in the 1930’s by the CCC.  It is octagonal in shape and offers sheltered views 360 degrees.

IMG_0978 IMG_0985

IMG_0981 IMG_0984

Data Book:

Mount Cammerer Data Book

HikerHead 2  Shalom…

Low Gap Trail II

Date:    May 6, 2016

Miles:  2.9 miles           Elevation Gain:  1,916 ft.↑   Elev./Mi:  660    Grade:     13%          

Difficulty:  Class 5      Hiking Time: 1:03       Pace:  2.7  mph       Avg. Temp.:   57

Low Gap Trail II Low Gap Trail II Elevation

Older guidebooks speak of Low Gap Trail as one trail, with a Tennessee side and a North Carolina side.  Low Gap Trail II provides access to the Appalachian Trail from Cosby Campground.  For this reason, it is a fairly popular trail as it makes for a good loop hike to Mt. Cammerer.  At the AT, it connects with Low Gap I, which terminates at Walnut Bottom and CS# 37, and it is one of the more idyllic campsites in the park.  Low Gap II is also one of the more steeper hikes in the park at 13% grade.  The trailhead is at the hiker parking lot just before the check-in shack for the campground.  There are a number of trails around Cosby Campground with its several side trails but also, Cosby is the general trailhead for Lower Cammerer and Snake Den Ridge Trails as well. With reasonable attentiveness, the hiker should be able to stay on their intended path.

Cosby Creek on Low Gap Trail II

Cosby Creek on Low Gap Trail II

The first 0.4 mile or so is consumed with negotiating the maze of side trails.  At 0.2  and 0.3 miles there are creek crossings on footlogs.  At 0.4 miles is the intersection with Lower Mt. Cammerer Trail.  This intersection is quite confusing because Low Gap II seems to exit to the right.  Take care to follow the signs here.  The confusion continues at 0.9 miles as the Cosby Horse trail enters from the right.  Some guidebooks indicate this is an alternate Low Gap Trail and signs may indicate that.  At this point, the climbing begins in earnest and continues the rest of the way up.  At 1.2 miles, there is a series of switchbacks in rapid succession before the trail straightens out and continues its steady ascent.  The trail crosses Cosby Creek at its headwaters at 2.5 miles and finally,a t 2.9 miles, this step climb is over at the intersection with the Appalachian Trail.  Low Gap Trail I heads down the ridge 2.5 miles to Walnut Bottom.  To the right on the AT is Cosby Knob Shelter at 0.8 miles and to the left is the Mt. Cammerer Trail at 2.1 miles.

Data Book:

Low Gap II Data Book

HikerHead 2  Strider out…

Solo Hiking and the Art of Hitchhiking

Hitchiker Pic900 Milers generally prefer loops.  It makes traveling in one vehicle simple.  But some hikes simply do not lend themselves to convenient loops.  Key swaps are a good strategy for avoiding the double mileage of Yo-Yo’s and lets’ face it, a few trails are long and do not fit well into loops.  Old Settlers Trail, at nearly 16 miles, is a case in point as it traverses between Cosby and Greenbriar.  Even shorter saunters like Roundtop Trail and Cove Mountain Trail come with logistical challenges for the solo hiker.  In remote areas like Parson Branch Road, sometimes you just have to hoof a road walk to get it done (like when I planned my road walk against the one-way traffic like an idiot…).  I find two options worth consideration.

First, hitchhiking.  One should always consider their own comfort and personal safety in choosing this option but even then, there are ways to hedge your bets and leverage in favor of safety.  In my case, I am about 80% successful hitching rides along the main thoroughfares like Little River Road, Laurel Creek Road and Newfound Gap Road.  It’s usually the fishermen who are most sympathetic.  Maybe it’s because they drive pickups and they have been standing knee deep in cold water all morning.  Despite the relative high numbers, I have never been offered a ride on a motorcycle.  No judgement, just sayin’.

Here are a few tips I find helpful:

  • Position yourself near pull-overs and overlooks.  Slower traffic increases your odds and it also gives would-be angels a place to pull over for you.  Your chances of getting a ride in curvy stretches with no pull outs are about as good as finding a parking spot at Ramsey Cascade Trailhead after10:00 on a Saturday.
  • Be visible.  It sometimes takes Karma a few seconds to work on some drivers.  Find a good straight section of road.
  • Smile and wave at those who pass you by.  You’re an ambassador for your kind and while they may not stop for you, they may the next time if they find hikers to be friendly.
  • Be patient.  It often takes about 20 minutes for a connection to make.
  • You may have to ride in the back of a pickup.  Make sure you have gloves in February!
  • It behooves oneself to present in a manner as to not appear like one who refers to oneself as, “one”.  Look friendly and safe.  Smile.  No one stops for smug 900 Milers with a strong air of entitlement or for that matter, someone who looks like they have a strong air.  Try to look like you smell good!  Save the condescension for your Facebook post.

Best Advice: If you meet up with other hikers, especially near the trailhead, mention you need a ride.  Birds of a feather.  This has worked twice for me in the last month.  I completed a backpacking trip at the Gregory Ridge Trailhead at the turnaround on Forge Creek Road.  It’s about 2.5 miles back to Cades Cove but that weekend, there were plenty of hikers on the trail.  I passed a couple near the trailhead, exchanged some trail intel in a polite and gentile manor.  They were happy to give me a lift back to the Cove.  The second instance came with a hiking partner who finished up on a side trail while I negotiated the arduous climb and subsequent descent of Smokemont Loop trail.  The car was several miles up at the trailhead at Kephart Prong Trail.  She met up with a hiking group, made quick friends and not only scored a ride but a cold soda to boot.  When I got to Smokemont, the car was there at the end of the trail.  Uber of the Smokies!

Recycle that ‘cycle. Another option I piloted successfully this past Memorial Day.  I needed Chestnut Top Trail and the prospects for hitching a ride from the trailhead at Schoolhouse Gap Trail back to the “Y” were pretty good given the trail’s popularity with day hikers and tourists.  But I had been itching to try a bicycle solution.  So I got a heavy cable and a good lock and stashed my mountain bike a little ways up the bank at the parking area.  Then I drove back to the “Y”, lashed my bike helmet to my daypack and had a glorious morning of hiking.  When I arrived at the trailhead, the bike was there safely cabled to a tree.  In less than 5 minutes, I was headed down Laurel Creek Road and 20 minutes later, i was on the way to the Burgermaster in Townsend.  It really helps to plan for a downhill ride.  Climbing up to Laurel Falls is a killer, even for seasoned lycra-clad cyclists on expensive road bikes.

And one more thing…

Bank your Mojo.  Karma counts! I give a ride to a fellow hiker every chance I get.  Sometimes, even when they are not hitchhiking.  Chances are, if you see someone hoofing it on the side of the road with a daypack, they are headed for their car.  If you help them out, he or she may see you the next time, or the next hiker.  Even the fishermen appreciate being asked if they need a lift.  Just remember not to blame Karma when the ride never comes.  Mojo doesn’t work that way.

HikerHead 2  Strider Out!