Category Archives: Trail Log

Mingus Creek Trail

Date:    April 27, 2016

Miles:  5.7 miles           Elevation Gain:  2,920↑        Elev./Mi:   512       Grade:     10%          

Difficulty:  Class 4      Hiking Time: 2:18       Pace:  2.73  mph         Avg. Temp.:   63        

Section:  Oconaluftee

Mingus Creek Trail  Mingus Creek Elevation

The trailhead for Mingus Creek Trail is the parking area for Mingus Mill on Newfound Gap Road near the Oconaluftee Visitor Center at the Cherokee entrance to the Park.  The trail follows along Mingus Creek and then Madcap Branch for the first 2.5 miles providing ample water although the second half of the trail is fairly dry.  The nearest campsite is Campsite #52 on Newton Bald Trail just 0.3 miles past the intersection.  Mingus Creek is also part of the Mountain-To=Sea Trail in North Carolina that runs 1,150 miles form Jockey’s Ridge on the Coast to Clingmans Dome.  The other main feature of the trail is the Mill which is at the trailhead.  Mingus Mill boasts a turbine mill which represents fairly advanced technology for the time it was employed in commerce.

Leaving the parking area, the trail is a gravel road following Mingus Creek.  The trail crosses Mingus Creek on bridges four times in the first mile starting at 0.2 miles.  AT 0.4 miles, just past the second bridge crossing is a firing range on the right used by the Park Service.  The trail climbs gently through this section.  The service road ends about a mile in and becomes a jeep track.  At 1.2 miles is the access road to the Mingus Creek Cemetery.  The road forks as does the stream at about 1.4 miles.  Mingus Creek Trail crosses and then follows Madcap Branch and narrows to single track climbing more steeply.  AT 2.2 miles there is is the first of several switchbacks negotiating the ascent up to the intersection with Deeplow Gap Trail at  2.9 miles.  The trail levels off for a few hundred yards before resuming it arduous climb along the ridge toward Newton Bald.  At 4.7 miles is the first of 6 switchbacks over the next half mile.  A half mile or so past these switchbacks, or just a few hundred yards from the end of the section, the old guidebooks mention the existence of an ancient American Chestnut Tree that somehow has survived the blight that killed off this beautiful race of tree people nearly a hundred years ago.

The trail terminates at the intersection with Newton Bald Trail on Newton Bald.  The bald has long since overgrown with mixed hardwoods.

Data Book:

Mingus Creek Data Book

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Gregory Bald Backpacking Trip

Date: April 29-30, 2016

Miles: 28.2 miles           Elevation Gain:   6,087 ↑        Elev./Mi:   216         Grade:  4%          

Difficulty:  Class 3        Hiking Time: 10:01       Pace:  2.8  mph                 Section:  Oconaluftee

Gregroy Bald PackpackRoute:

  • Wet Bottoms Trail to Rabbit Creek Trail                  1.0
  • Rabbit Creek Trail to Hannah Mountain Trail         5.1
  • Hannah Mountain Trail to Parsons Branch Road  7.6
  • Gregory Bald Trail to CS#13                                      4.1
  • Gregory Bald Trail (CS #13) to AT                             3.3
  • Gregory Bald Trail to Gregory Ridge Trail               2.1
  • Gregory Ridge Trail to Trailhead                              5.0

 

Hannah Mountain Trail presents a bit of a challenge for the 900 Miler.  It doesn’t make up a convenient loop and one of its trailheads is on Parsons Branch Road, a one-way gravel thoroughfare leading out of Cades Cove to US 129 (The Dragons Tail) near Fontana.  It’s a really long drive to get back to civilization.  Compounding the challenge is the fact that Parsons Branch Road is closed through the winter and typically opens early April.  Not so this year.  Due to numerous blow downs, the Park Service had not opened the road for the season at this point.  Gregory Bald Trail presents the same challenge as both trails meet at Sams Gap on Parsons Branch Road.  A great solution is to connect them in one big loop.  There are a few choices for a trailhead.  Abrams Falls Parking area is a good one and you may choose to park at the turnaround on Ridge Creek Road where the Gregory Bald Ridge terminates.  Since Wet Bottoms Trail was still on my list to complete, I chose the parking area on Cades Cove Loop near Cooper Road Trail.  In any case, the length of Ridge Creek Road would have to be hiked unless I was was lucky enough to catch a lift.

IMG_2684

Parking Area at Cades Cove near Cooper Road Trail

Burned Area on Wet Bottoms

Burned Area on Wet Bottoms

Wet Bottoms is a pleasant saunter as it starts at the intersection on Cooper Road Trail.  It descends ever so slightly through a recent controlled burn area and meets up with Abrams Creek.  You can ford the creek or you can choose to take the parallel trail to the connector from Abrams Falls trailhead to Oliver’s Cabin.  Keeping your feet dry may be a wise goal but if you continue on to Rabbit Creek Trail, your efforts are in vain.  Wet Bottoms Trailhead is at the Abrams Falls Trail parking area, which also serves as the trailhead for Rabbit Creek Trail

IMG_2691Rabbit Creek Trail is 7.8 miles long.  It crosses shallow Mill Creek near it’s confluence with Abrams Creek upon leaving Cades Cove and it fords Abrams Creek at the other end at its arrival in Abrams Creek Campground.  It is a refreshing start to a full day of hiking.  The trail is an old mountain road and ascends steadily over 2.5 miles up Boring Ridge through a pine forest.  There are a couple stream crossings in this section.  Once the trail leveled off, I looked ahead and saw the IMG_2695rear end of a bruin brother fifty yards or so ahead.  If the relationship with brother bear is as it should be, he smells you and is gone by the time you pull your camera phone out of your pocket.  Such was the case in this moment as he caught my scent, snorted his surprise and took off.  This was my first bear of the season and judging from what I have heard, it is going to be a great year for bear encounters.  Not to be outdone, the community of wild hogs made their acquaintance not more than a half mile further down the trail, represented by a sow and her brood of about 8 piglets.  With a loud snort, she alerted her family to exit the trail quickly before I had a chance to capture their picture as well.  The trail descends gently toward Campsite #15.  There are 5 campsites on this route and this is the first at 4.1 miles.  A quick review of the site and I was off to finish the section at the intersection with Hannah Mountain Trail.

Campsite #16 is at the intersection with Hannah Mountain and Rabbit Creek Trail.  It is the site of a former shelter and is nicely secluded from the trail.  After a short break, the hike continued down Hannah Mountain Trail.  For four miles, Hannah Mountain rolls along through mixed pine forest.  It is the kind of hike that provides good time for contemplation as the hiking is effort free and there are few obstacles to negotiate such as creek crossings.  Bear number 2 introduced himself about 2 miles into Hannah Mountain Trail.  Our meeting again kept the typical protocol as he did not pose for pictures.  Campsite #14 arrives at Flint Gap at 5.1 miles.  The pine forest makes for good cover but the site may not be great as it has few level sites for tents.  The trail basically splits the site and the fire ring is a mere few feet off the path.  I was not able to locate the spring suggested as the water source in an older guidebook but there is good water about 400 yd. down the trail as it crosses Hannah Branch.  The trail begins a steady ascent once you leave CS #14 climbing about 600 ft in the next mile.  The last couple miles are level as the pine forest continues to the trailhead at Sams Gap.

IMG_2716Sams Gap has a rather interesting memory associated with it.  The last time I was here, I was taking a break/nap when a guy on a bicycle came up Parsons Branch road.  He saw me and hit the breaks, falling down in front of me. He got up unhurt and looked me in the eye, calling me by name.  With sunglasses and a bike helmet, I couldn’t recognize him but when he spoke I saw it was a good friend, Barry Lucas who lives in Townsend.  Barry is  prolific cyclist and was out for the day on a huge loop from Maryville, over US 129 and up Parsons Branch to Cades Cove.  The chances of both of us being in that remote place in that specific moment cannot even be calculated.  Alas, Barry didn’t show up this day so after a brief rest, I was up for the last big climb of the day.

Mountain Magnolia

Mountain Magnolia

The climb up Gregory Bald Trail to Campsite #13 at Sheep Pen Gap was over 1,800 ft in 4.1 miles.  Despite this 14% grade, it is actually the easier access compared to Gregory Ridge Trail.  The first half mile is level before the climb turns to steady uphill.  Along this path I was introduced to a beautiful flowering tree I later learned was the Mountain Magnolia.  At 1.3 miles the climb turns forceful.  At 3.5 miles, there is evidence of pretty heavy impact from the wild pigs and horses, making the trial rather muddy in places.

Finally, at 4.1 miles, CS #13 appears.  There were 16 or so tents already in the camp as this is one of the more popular sites in the park.  This number exceeded the specified capacity of the site but fortunately there is plenty of good level space to spread out. The site also sees a fair amount of bear activity and the Park Service will close it in times of heavy interaction.  I found a couple trees and hung the hammock, then I joined a group of guys from Maine at their campfire for some conversation while we cooked our dinner.  I wanted to catch a sunset on Gregory Bald, which is only a half mile up trail from the campsite but timing was not my friend.  Nevertheless, I donned my trusty headlamp and headed up for some stargazing.

Gregory Bald is among my most favorite places.  Although quite popular, it’s not an insignificant effort to get there and it’s rare to have the moment to yourself.  If you are willing, solitude can be found with a little effort and one way is to head up the trail in the dark.  So with headlamp mounted, I made the 10 minute hike to find a beautiful view of the Maryville lights.  Gregory Bald invites some rather aggressive breezes as testified by the low tree cover but this night was calm and cool.  When engaged in a sacred moment, it seems out of place to be concerned with such constraints such as time.  I am not sure how long I was there but I arrived back at camp abut 9:30 and nestled into my hanging cocoon for a calm night of well deserved rest.

I awoke at first light and quickly but quietly broke camp as I really wanted to catch the sunrise on the Bald, especially since I missed sunset the previous night.  At 6:30 am, I got a later start than I preferred and by the time I made the 10 minute hike up to the top, the sky was already lighting up.  To my great fortune, the sun had not yet risen over the distant ridge so I was able to settle near my favorite tree and prepare for the magic that was about to unfold.  Watching the sunrise by yourself in a sacred place is like witnessing creation.  There was a stillness you can feel as the sky is set ablaze by the first light of a new day. Here, time is not measured in minutes and hours.  Only in moments of eternity.  The new day was then celebrated with a feast of oatmeal and coffee in the best dining room in the Smokies.  There were no other guests, no service staff and no exchange of commerce.  Only a quiet inauguration of  glorious new day.

IMG_2727 IMG_2731 IMG_2734                     IMG_2737

The goal for the day was to complete the Gregory Bald Trail which extended another 2.5 miles to the Appalachian Trail, which was a rolling descent along the North Carolina/Tennessee state line.  An older guidebook mentioned this section and being a part of the AT in early times.  The bald disappears a short distance from the top as the trail enters low mixed hardwoods in a steep descent.  Hiking atop a ridge does not guarantee level walking.  Gregory Bald trail goes up and down like a roller coaster with very steep climbs of a quarter mile or so.  About a mile into the morning’s hike, I met another group of wild pigs who quickly scattered upon meeting my scent.  Trail damage from the hogs is again evident in this stretch.  At 6.6 miles, the trial levels out to pleasant hiking until about 7.0 miles for one final short climb up to the AT.

A Late Blooming Dogwood

A Late Blooming Dogwood

With Gregory Bald Trail now complete, I headed back toward Gregory Ridge Trail for my exit back to Cads Cove; now hiking the steep roller coaster in reverse.  The two miles was complete in 45 minutes.  After a sip of water, it was time to plunge down Gregory Ridge Trail to Forge Creek Turnaround.  It’s 5 miles and my goal was to make it in 90 minutes.  Such a challenge does not leave time for casual conversations with other hikers, nor does it afford opportunities for flower gazing and making conversation with the tree people.  But as one approaches a certain age, it is good to know your legs can still fly.  And since I have already hiked and documented this section for posterity, I saw no compelling need to repeat that effort.  I did meet a few hikers headed up to Gregory Bald for the day and I avoided rudeness with a quick hello and letting them know how much of their climbing ordeal was ahead of them.  You lose 2,600 ft over 5 miles in this direction and even though i was not having to climb like my fellow hikers, a steep descent is no less full of effort.  Upon approaching Campsite #12 at 3.1 miles, I did not stop to make a full report as it was also documented in my previous hike.  I nodded politely to a couple hikers at the site and continued my accelerated pace for the last 2 miles to the trailhead.  At 1 hour, 29 minutes, I reached the trailhead and collapsed.  The young couple I passed just a half mile back appeared and we chatted briefly.  They were at CS #13 as well and reported that a bear came through the campsite mid-afternoon sniffing around rather leisurely and not really worried about its human brothers and sisters.  It was a good thing we had no encounters in the night.

As they headed for their car, I was able to beg a ride back to Cades Cove, relieving me of the 2.5 mile road walk back to the Loop Road.  They dropped me off at the Visitor Center parking area and I hiked the mile against traffic back to the car.  After a 35 minute traffic crawl back out of Cades Cove, I was able to make it to Elvira’s Cafe in time for a late lunch, capping a great two days of hiking.

Route Data:

Gregory Bald Route

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Mingus Creek Lolly Pop Loop

Date: April 27, 2016

Miles: 17.3 miles           Elevation Gain:   4,191 ↑        Elev./Mi:   257         Grade:  5%          

Difficulty:  Class 5        Hiking Time: 7:13       Pace:  2.4  mph            Avg. Temp.:  75        

Section:  Oconaluftee

Mingus Creek Lolly Pop LoopRoute:

  • Mingus Creek Trail to Newton Bald Trail       5.7
  • Newton Bald Trail to Thomas Divide Trail     0.7
  • Thomas Divide Trail to Deep Low Gap Trail  3.1
  • Cooper Creek Trail – Return                            1.0
  • Deep Low Gap Trail to Mingus Creek Trail   3.9
  • Mingus Creek Trail to trailhead                     2.9

 

This hike begins and ends with the Mingus Creek Trail.  The trailhead is the parking area for Mingus Mill located on New Found Gap Road near the Oconaluftee Visitor Center on the Cherokee side of the Park.  Mingus Mill is a highlight in itself boasting a turbine driven mill which was the high technology of the day.  For the 900 Miler, this is but one of several loop possibilities in this section as there are several intersecting trails between here and the Deep Creek Section.  The other fine feature of this hike is Little Creek Falls on Deep Low Gap trail.  Although there is only a single 10% grade climb, it is over the length of the Mingus Creek Trail and the route overall climbs some 4,100 ft making this a fairly difficult section to hike.  There is ample water and Campsite #52 is on the route located on the Newton Bald Trail.  Of interesting note, this section of trail is used for the Mountains-to-Sea Trail as it enters the Park toward its terminus on Clingmans Dome.

Leaving the Mingus Creek parking area the trail follows a jeep track for a few hundred feet passing a shooting range for Park Rangers on the right.  The path follows Mingus Creek for a mile and a quarter and spits off to follow Madcap Branch.  The fork to the right proceeds 0.8 miles to a cemetery. The trail crosses Mad Cap Branch several times until you reach the last one at 2.1 miles.  The trail continues at a 10% grade over the next few miles utilizing several switch backs to facilitate the climbing.  Deep Low Gap Trail intersects from the left at 2.9 miles, which will bring you back from the loop later in the day.  AT 5.7 miles, the climbing finally abates on Newton Bald at the intersection with Newton Bald Trail.

Campsite #52

Campsite #52

The route passes along the only level section of Newton Bald Trail briefly; passing Campsite #52 and then terminating at the Thomas Divide Trail.  All your climbing effort is rewarded over the next three miles as the trail descends over 2,300 ft. into Deep Low Gap, where the route picks up the Deep Low Gap Trail headed toward the left. This section of trail encounters no creek crossings.  The intersection is at the highpoint of the Deep Low Gap Trail so you are treated to a continued descent.

Little Creek Falls

Little Creek Falls

At about 0.8 miles down Deep Low Gap is the beautiful Little Creek Falls, which is a 95 ft. cascade over Thunderhead Sandstone.   The trail crosses a footlog at the base of the falls and continues its 1,000 ft. descent to Deep Low Creek.  The Cooper Creek Trail intersects at 2.4 miles.  Cooper Creek Trail is an access trail to the park boundary on Cooper Creek Road.  It is highly advisable to grab this half mile path because it is a difficult orphan to come back later and complete.  Copper Creek Trail follows it namesake to the trailhead, crossing the creek several times and at about 0.3 miles, the trail and the creek become one.  While there are numerous side trails attempting to avoid wet feet, it is probably just as well to enjoy a refreshing soak along the 50 yards or so where the trail and the creek are the same.

IMG_2678After the quick yo-yo hike to Cooper Creek Road, continue on Deep Low Gap Trail as it begins it’s climb back up to the Mingus Creek Trail.  This climb is about 1,000 ft over nearly 2.5 miles but the 4% grade is deceptively hard after having hiked over 12 miles.  The trail crosses Cooper Creek several times, at least once in a wet crossing, before the trail crosses one last time in a switchback and begins the final 0.7 mile ascent up to Mingus Creek Trail.

The nice thing about joining Mingus Creek at this point is that it’s all downhill from here.  The final 3 miles of the hike goes quickly in less than an hour as the motivation to end the long day overcomes the accumulated weariness.

 

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Finley Cane Trail

Date:    April 23, 2016

Miles:  2.6 miles           Elevation Gain:  259↑ **        Elev./Mi:   99       Grade:       2%          

Difficulty:  Class 1      Hiking Time: 0:57       Pace:  2.73  mph         Avg. Temp.:   63        

Section:  Cades Cove  

** This section was documented from Bote Mountain Trail, descending to the trailhead at Laurel Creek Road.  From the trailhead up, the elevation gain is 459 ft., Elevation/mile is 176 at a 3% grade.

Finley Cane Map  Finley Cane Elevation

The trailhead for Finley Cane Trail is on Laurel Creek Road, 5.5 miles from the Townsend “Y”.  It is shared with Lead Cove and Turkey Pen Ridge Trails providing the 900 miler with several options for loop hikes.  This section was hike a part of a loop with Lead Cove to Bote Mountain and is documented from Bote Mountain Trail.  There is ample water along the path with several creek crossings.  The closest campsite is about 0.9 miles from the Bote Mountain intersection down West Prong Trail to CS #18.

From Bote Mountain Trail, the path is level to a slight incline for the first 0.4 miles, then descending to Finley Cove Creek at 1.0 miles.  The creek is typically dry in the summer.  Flowing Finley Cove Creek, there is a slight rise and then a pleasant descent to Hickory Tree Branch and Laurel Cove Creek, two crossing that occur at 2.0 miles.  This section passes through mixed hardwoods, some of which are remnants of virgin timber forests.  The gentle descent continues on the the trail head at 2.6 miles at Laurel Creek Road.

Finley Cane Data Book

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Lead Cove Trail

Date:    April 23, 2016

Miles:  1.8 miles           Elevation Gain:  1,162↑         Elev./Mi:   645     Grade:     12%          

Difficulty:  Class 4      Hiking Time: 0:57       Pace:  3.1  mph         Avg. Temp.:   63        

Section:  Cades Cove    

Lead Cove Map Lead Cove Elevation

The trailhead for Lead Cove Trail is on Laurel Creek Road at 5.5 miles west of the Townsend “Y”.  The trailhead is shared among Finley Cane Trail and Turkey Pen Ridge Trail, giving 900 Milers several options for loop hikes.  The trail was originally named Sandy Gap Trail as it terminates at the Bote Mountain Trail at Sandy Gap but it was refurbished and renamed in 1970.  The trail is the remains of old wagon trails that permeated the farmlands that once made up this area of the park.  There is plenty of water but no campsites along this path.

The trail climbs steadily along it’s length.  At 0.4 miles it crosses Sugar Grove Prong on an easy rock hopper.  Just past Sugar Grove Creek, there are clearings where once stood the Gibson-Tipton Cabin.  The next creek crossing is at 1.4 miles over Laurel Cove Creek.  The steady climb continues up the flank of Bote Mountain until you reach Sandy Gap at 1.8 miles and the terminus at Bote Mountain Trail.

Lead Cove Data Book copy

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Lead Cove – Finley Cane Loop Hike

Date: April 23, 2016

Miles: 7.5 miles           Elevation Gain:   1,555   ↑         Elev./Mi:   207         Grade:  4%          

Difficulty:  Class 3        Hiking Time: 2:48       Pace:  2.7  mph            Avg. Temp.:  72        

Section:  Cades Cove     

Lead Cove - Finley Cane LoopThis is a good, moderately difficult loop that is easy to get to.  The trailhead is on Laurel Creek Road, 5.5 miles from the Townsend “Y”. This trailhead is where several trails meet in the section including both Lead Cove and Finely Cane as well as Turkey Pen Ridge.  This intersection offers a number of loop possibilities depending on the desired length of the hike.  There is plenty of water along the route but there are no campsites.  The closest site is CS#18 at 0.6 miles past the intersection.

 

 

IMG_2661The route is:

  1. Lead Cove Trail to Bote Mountain Trail                      1.8 miles
  2. Bote Mountain Trail to West Prong Trail                    2.8 miles
  3. Bote Mountain Trail (return) to Finley Cane Trail     0.3 miles
  4. Finely Cane Trail to Trailhead                                      2.6 miles

The morning was cool and cloudy, good for cranking some mileage.  Lead Cove Trail is a steady 1,161 ft climb at 12% through mixed hardwoods.  There are a couple stream crossings at 0.4 miles over Sugar Cove Prong and again at 1.4 miles at Laurel Cove Creek.  Lead Cove terminates at 1.8 miles into Bote Mountain Trail.  Note to 900 milers:  You may consider hiking the 1.2 miles of Bote Mountain Trail up to the Intersection with Anthony Creek and returning.  The upper section of Bote Mountain is commonly hiked in a loop with Anthony  Creek trail.  Neglecting this segment can create an orphan.  However, ignoring this advice, we hiked on down Bote Mountain to West Prong Trail.  This section loses most of the elevation gained on Lead Cove in a gentle descent over its 2.8 miles.  The segment between Finley Cane Trail and West Prong Trail is a mere 0.3 miles and we elected to grab it in less than 10 minutes of walking.  Finley Cane Trail undulates a bit losing more elevation than is gained for a net 259 ft. over 2.6 miles.  There are creek crossings at 1.0 miles over Finely Cove Creek, 2.0 miles at Hickory Tree Branch and shortly beyond at Laurel Cove Creek.

Overall, this loop hike is quite enjoyable.  The section features many opportunities to view wildflowers over the season and bear sightings are common.

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West Prong Trail

Date:    April 2, 2016

Miles:  2.7 miles           Elevation Gain:  978↑         Elev./Mi:   362     Grade:     7%          

Difficulty:  Class 1      Hiking Time: 1:02       Pace:  2.6  mph         Avg. Temp.:   72        

Section:  Cades Cove    

West Prong Trail  West Prong Trail Elevation

IMG_2637Much of the hiking as a 900 Miler, I do solo for a couple reasons.  First, it is often more practical as I tend to hike hard and fast and good hiking partners are hard to find.  I also tend to prefer spontaneity in planning.  Secondly, I hike for spiritual reasons and the solitude gives me room for reflection, not to mention increased probability of bear sightings.  But this is not to say that the Smokies should not be shared freely with friends and family.  A proper Sabbath has both elements of quiet self-reflection and moments of laughter and conversation that is the fellowship of loved ones and friends.  In a world where brevity of communication is embraced in snippets of 120 characters and selfies, a good long hike affords good long conversations.  For these times, there are certain trails that provide a balance between length, difficulty and the encounter with creation.  West Prong Trail fits this balance well.  It is an easy hike, perhaps best suited for a yo-yo as there are not any reasonable options for a loop.

West Prong Trail is a connector of sorts in that it connects the Cades Cove Trails with the trails of  the Tremont and Element Sections.  It also connects the Middle Prong of the Little River with its namesake, the West Prong of the Little River.  Both these prongs combine with the Little River proper at the famous “Y” at the Townsend entrance to the Park.  The trailhead is in a parking area off Tremont Road and the trail extends 2.7 miles to Bote Mountain Trail.  The hike is fairly easy and includes a couple features that include  the Walker Family Cemetery, Campsite #18 and the West Prong itself.

Dogwood Blooms on West Prong Trail

Dogwood Blooms on West Prong Trail

Almost immediately from the trailhead, there is a fork leading left on the designated trail and right to the Walker Family Cemetery, which is still maintained and active.  There is a trail leading from the cemetery back to West Prong Trail at 0.3 miles to complete a short loop.  The majority of the climbing for the day is over the first 1.25 miles as the trail ascend gently up the flank of Fodderstack Mountain to climb about 600 ft.  At 1.1 miles the Dorsey Branch Trail exits to the right.  Dewey Branch is an old 1.5 mile manway leading back to the West Prong Trailhead at the parking lot through mixed hardwoods in an area of remote homesites long disappeared and reclaimed by the forest.  The trail crests shortly after the Dorsey Branch Trail and descends slightly to the West Prong.  April brings the Dogwood blooms which are plentiful along this path.

West Prong at CS #18

West Prong at CS #18

CS #18

CS #18

 

At 2.1 miles the trail crosses over the West Prong on a footlog leading immediately to West Prong Campsite #18.  This large site has found itself overdeveloping along the creek with highly impacted spots and little privacy.  However, there is a second half of the site further up the trail which contains the bear cables and much more secluded accommodations.  The trail leaves the campsite in a bit of a switchback as you continue a slight climb up the foot of Bote Mountain.  At 2.7 miles the trail terminates at the intersection with Bote Mountain Trail in a nice pine forrest.

Data Book:

West Prong Data Book

HikerHead 2

Special thanks to my friend Lynn Youngs for the hours of conversation and fellowship.  Strider Out!

Russell Field Trail

Date:    May 26, 2016

Miles:  3.5 miles           Elevation Gain:  1,916↑         Elev./Mi:   574     Grade:     10%          

Difficulty:  Class 5      Hiking Time: 1:26       Pace:  2.8  mph         Avg. Temp.:   65        

Section:  Cades Cove    

Russell Field Trail  Russell Field Trail Elevation

IMG_2590Russell Field Trail is a connector trail from Anthony Creek Trail to the AT at Russell Field Shelter.  It provides a direct link to Cades Cove from the AT.  The trailhead is at 1.6 miles up Anthony Creek Trail from the Cades Cove Picnic Area.  The intersection is just pat where Anthony Creek and Left Prong Anthony Creek merge at a fork to form the headwaters of Abrams Creek.  At 0.25 miles is a crossing of Left Prong Anthony Creek.  The trail climbs steadily on single track and follows the Loft Prong to 0.7 miles at a creek crossing on a footlog, then another rock hopper at 0.8 miles.  Campsite #10, Leadbetter Ridge appears at 0.9 miles.  The

Campsite #10

Campsite #10

site is just off the trail with quite a bit of impact.  On this day there was much litter left around the campfire.  The grade increases past the campsite through mixed hardwoods and hemlocks, some of which are old growth stands of trees.  AT 1.2 miles is a switchback turing into rhododendron.  The trail has left the company of Left Prong by this time and opens up a bit with views of Rich Mountain across Cades Cove.  AT 1.4 miles, the trail grade really increases as it become more rocky.  At 1.9 miles more views appear through the trees into the Cove.  At 2.0 miles you reach the top of a rolling ridge with plenty of laurel and rhododendron which blooms beautifully in early June.  At 2.4 miles, you are still on the top of the ridge but the climbing resumes.  At 2.7 miles you pass through mixed hardwood with very little undergrowth and open.  The rhododendron returns at 3.0 miles.  AT 3.1

Pine Tree Sentinel In Clearing Near Spence Field

Pine Tree Sentinel In Clearing Near Spence Field

miles, there is a side trail leading to a clearing where there is evidence of previous unofficial camping.  There is a majestic pine tree serving as a sentinel over this lovely space and it is easy to understand why humans would want to spend time here.  The trail continues fairly level for the last several hundred yards to Russell Field Shelter.  You rock hop a spring at 3.4 miles, which is the water source for the Shelter and at 3.5 miles, Russell Field Trail ends on the AT.

 

 

 

Russell Field Shelter

Russell Field Shelter

Rhododendron Tunnel on Russell Field Trail

Rhododendron Tunnel on Russell Field Trail

Data Book:

Russell Field Data Book

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Anthony Creek Trail

Date:    03.26.2016

Miles:  3.5 miles           Elevation Gain:  1,742↓         Elev./Mi:   497     Grade:     9%          

Difficulty:  Class 5      Hiking Time: 1:05       Pace:  3.3  mph         Avg. Temp.:   65        

Section:  Cades Cove    

Anthony Creek Trail  Anthony Creek Elevation

Anthony Creek Trail is quite popular as it is an access trail to several features of the Park that include two shelters on the AT, the lovely Russell Field and Spence Field.  It is also an access to Thunderhead and Rocky Top via the Bote Mountain Trail and a short section of the AT.  This hike was documented in a Lolly Pop Loop route that included Russell Field Trail, the AT and the top section of Bote Mountain Trail.  Through it’s entirety, the trail follows a creek, which the guidebooks designate as its namesake, Anthony Creek.  However, the GPS map seems to indicate that Anthony Creek and Left Prong Anthony Creek merge to form Abrams Creek near the junction with the Russell Field Trail. This is the preferred story if for no other reason than it introduces the headwaters for Abrams Creek, itself having significance for this hiker.   For this entry, the trail is documented from the intersection with Bote Mountain to the trailhead at Cades Cove Picnic Area as that was the direction in which the trail was hiked in its entirety.  Most hikers will encounter it from the trailhead.  The calculated grade is 9% but the class 5 difficulty rating comes from the fairly steep and rocky section at the top of the trail. There is ample water and Campsite #9 is on the path.

IMG_2625Anthony Creek Trail starts at 1.7 miles north of the AT at Spence Field on the Bote Mountain Trail.  Bote Mountain Trail starts off fairly steep at 12% and that trend continues with Anthony Creek.  At about 0.3 miles, a view of Cades Cove opens up through the trees.  At 0.5 miles, you can hear Anthony Creek singing songs of welcome and at 0.6 miles the trail joins the creek at a large switchback.  The trail and the creek are in companionship all the way to the

View of Cades Cove from Anthony Creek

View of Cades Cove from Anthony Creek

trailhead.  At 0.7 miles is Anthony Creek Campsite #9 which is a very large and popular campsite.  There are at least 5 fire rings indicating just how popular this campsite is.  Through the summer months, on weekends, expect crowds.  At 1.3 miles the  descent continues at about 9% grade.  At 1.9 miles you reach a footlog over Left Prong of Anthony Creek and you pass the intersection with Russell Field Trail leading 3.5 miles to the AT at Russell Field Shelter.  At this point, two prongs of Anthony Creek come together to form the headwaters for Abrams Creek.  Over the next mile

Campsite #9

Campsite #9

or so, the grade levels a bit and the trail becomes more merciful to the feet.  There are a few creek crossings over footlogs.   At 2.2 miles the gravel road returns.  All along this stretch are a number of nice cascades keeping one company courtesy of Abrams Creek.  The Anthony Creek Horse Camp opens up at 3.2 miles and Crib Gap trail appears at 3.4 miles.  Just beyond is the trailhead at the Cades Coves Picnic Area.

Data Book:

Anthony Creek Data Book

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Anthony Creek – Bote Mountain Trails – Lolly Pop Hike

Date: March 26, 2016

Miles: 14.2 miles           Elevation Gain:   3,212↑         Elev./Mi:   356.9     Grade:  7%          

Difficulty:  Class 4        Hiking Time: 4:47       Pace:  2.97  mph         Avg. Temp.:   65        

Section:  Cades Cove     

Anthony Creek - Bote Mountain LoopCades Cove Picnic Area at the Anthony Creek Trailhead, 8:50 am on the Saturday before Easter.  There is only one other vehicle in the area and this end of the park was surprisingly quiet and devoid of visitors.  Nonetheless, it was a beautiful morning, temperature in the mid 40’s.  This particular loop is a popular one as it features the Appalachian Trail, two shelters and the delightful Spence Field.  It is also an access point for Rocky Top and Thunderhead.  Perhaps one of the best features is the fact that one does not have to negotiate Cades Cove Loop traffic to get to the trailhead.

IMG_2584The route is Anthony Creek Trail to Russell Field Trail to the AT.  From the Russell Field Shelter on the AT to Bote Mountain Trail at Spence Field, down Bote Mountain to Anthony Creek and out, making up the lolly pop shape of the route.  Overall, the hike is moderate difficulty at about a Class 4 but the climb up Russell Field Trail is a 10% grade.  The descents on Bote Mountain and Anthony Creek are 12% and 9% respectively making this particular direction the more desirable; steeper on the way down…  There is plenty of water on this loop and there are two shelters and two campsites.

Anthony Creek Trail

Anthony Creek Trail

The hike up the lower portion of Anthony Creek Trail starts out in a gentle climb on a wide gravel road.  At 0.2 miles on the left is the Crib Gap Trail leading 1.6 miles to Turkey Pen Ridge.  The 900 Miler should consider this as a potential orphan.  Just beyond lies the horse camp.  The morning turned even more beautiful as the gentle climb continued, passing through evergreens that seem to be under attack as many were dead and some still standing.  The trail follows Abrams Creek, crossing it a few times until about 1.5 miles where Anthony Creek and the Left Prong of Anthony Creek come together.  This is the headwaters of Abrams Creek which has become so special in the heart of this hiker.  At 1.7 miles and 29 minutes, is the intersection with Russell Filed Trail.

 

Pine Tree Sentinel In Clearing Near Spence Field

Pine Tree Sentinel In Clearing Near Russell Field

Russell Filed is single track and follows Left Prong Anthony Creek as the climb steepens to a 10% grade over the next 3.5 miles.  At 0.9 miles on Russell Field Trail is the Leadbetter Ridge Campsite #10 which is a good rest spot unless there are late sleeping inhabitants who would appreciate not being disturbed.  The rhododendron and laurel start to show up as low shrubs.  Look for wonderful blooms in this section early summer. The trail crests a ridge at 1.9 miles with views opening up of Cades Cove.  At around 3 miles, Russell Field Trail opens up to grassy fields and yet the climb continues steadily.  Note a large clearing on the left at 3.4 miles with an unofficial campsite. An unusual pine tree keeps sentinel over this peaceful spot. One can see why campers would be attracted to spend a night here.  Russell Field Trail ends on the AT at Russell Filed Shelter.

Russell Field Shelter

Russell Field Shelter

There were a half dozen hikers enjoying lunch at the shelter when a group of college friends on spring break showed up early for the evening.  I enjoyed a good conversation with them as they were all from Elon College and had all studied entrepreneurship.  While we enjoyed our lunch, there was a steady flow of hikers on the AT, many of which were no doubt AT Thru-Hikers as it is the time of year for their annual migration to pass through the Great Smoky Mountain National Park.

AT Ridge Runner

AT Ridge Runner

Striking out on the AT just before noon found typical ridge hike rolling up and down as my right foot landed in North Carolina and my left landed in Tennessee.  At about 1.2 miles on the AT is a very interesting tree in later stages of decay.  A number of day hikers passed me heading south on the AT.  The trail is largely mixed hardwoods until at about 2.7 miles when Spence Field opens up.  The clouds have rolled in obscuring an otherwise beautiful view.  A hundred yards before the side trail to the Spense Field Shelter is what could be desrbed as a rhododendron “gateway” through which the trail runs as you near the intersection with Bote Mountain Trail and Eagle Creek Trail.  I stopped for some water and conversation with a 900 Miler.  Before long a ridge runner with the Appalachian Trail Conservancy joined us and shared a few stories about this years class of AT Thru-Hikers.  All along this time was a steady flow of backpackers moving in both directions.  It was nearly as bad as driving in Cades Cove.  I am so glad I will not be staying with the crowds amassing at all the shelters and campsites in this area tonight.

I took off down the steep rocky descent on Bote Mountain Trail and was making great time while passing several weary hikers on the way up looking for encouraging news about the end of their arduous climb.  I tried to be cherry but letting them know they still had a mile to go did not land with great tidings.  At about 1.5 miles I passed a young lady sporting a pair of Ray Ban Wayfarers.  The sight of her glasses reminded me that I did not have my own pair properly mounted on the bridge of my nose.  When they failed to show up in any of my pockets or my daypack, I concluded with much sadness that they must have been left back at the AT.  Having descended about 1,500 feet over a couple miles, I elected NOT to go back up and look for them.

Anthony Creek Trailhead at Cades Cove Picnic Area

Anthony Creek Trailhead at Cades Cove Picnic Area

The intersection with Anthony Creek Trail arrived at 1.7 miles.  The top of Anthony Creek Trail is fairly steep and somewhat muddy.  At about 0.3 miles, a view of Cades Cove opens up through the trees.  At 0.5 miles, you can hear Anthony Creek singing songs of welcome, which will be with you all the way back to the trailhead.  At 0.7 miles is Anthony Creek Campsite #9 which is a very large and popular campsite.  Today was no exception as there were several campers staking their claim early in the afternoon.  At 1.3 miles the 9+ % grade descent continues with the rocks adding a rugged component to the hike and a source of torment to aching feet.  At 1.9 miles is the intersection with Russell Field Trail.  The next 1.6 miles are repeat mileage but the trail lightens up to much more pleasant hiking.   At 2.2 miles the gravel road returns.  All along this stretch are a number of nice cascades keep one company courtesy of Abrams Creek.  Decision confronted me at 3.4 miles.  It was about hiking 2.4 miles out and back on Crib Gap Trail.  To make the story short, let’s just say I have a 1.2 mile orphan to pick up later.  I made the 3.5 miles down in 3 hours and 2 minutes and was greeted by a vast mob of picnicers.  Despite the great smelling food cooking, I was quite anxious to hop in the truck and get outa there!  A 14 mile day with 3,200 feet of climbing was my reward and my portion of being.

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